A belt’s size label, the distance to a fastening hole and the total length of the strap describe different things. To compare belts usefully, first identify where each measurement starts and ends. A long free tip can change the overall length without changing the hole at which the belt fastens.
Begin with the maker’s measuring convention
Hermès’ belt-size guidance asks readers to measure an existing belt from the base of the buckle tongue to the hole they use most. It also describes measuring around the body at the position where the belt will be worn.
Ettinger’s belt-size guide instead describes its stated size using the middle hole and the edge of the buckle, and advises taking clothing and wearing position into account. These are the makers’ own instructions. Read the guide for the exact belt being considered rather than assuming that every brand uses identical endpoints.
If “from the buckle” is not clear enough, ask for a marked photograph showing the starting point. The outer edge of the frame, the tongue’s pivot and the fold where a strap attaches should not be silently treated as the same reference. Record the maker’s definition alongside the number.
Keep five measurements separate
| Measurement | What it describes | What to specify |
|---|---|---|
| Labelled size | The size printed or offered by the maker | Exact model, units and the maker’s size guide |
| Distance to the fastening hole | The length between a defined start and the hole being assessed | Start point and the centre of the chosen hole |
| Total length | The full extent measured from a stated start to the tip | Whether the buckle is included |
| Adjustment range | Distances to the first and last usable holes on that belt | The same start point for both readings |
| Strap width | The width of the strap at a stated location | Where it was measured, especially if the strap tapers |
The middle hole used in a maker’s size convention and the hole you normally use on an existing belt are separate observations. Keep both where they are known. A trouser-size label is another piece of information; it does not replace the measurement defined by the belt maker.
Measure an existing belt in a repeatable way
- Choose a belt that fits at the position and over the clothing being considered. Note the hole actually used before taking it off.
- Read the destination maker’s instructions and identify the required starting point on the existing buckle. Ask for clarification if the constructions are too different to compare directly.
- Lay the belt along a flat surface without pulling it longer. Place the ruler or tape along its length and measure to the centre of the selected hole.
- Record the value, unit, endpoints and hole. Take a photograph that shows the measuring arrangement; do not rely on an unlabelled number.
- Record total length separately if it is needed to compare the free end. Label whether that reading includes the buckle.
This procedure applies to a belt with defined fastening holes. A woven belt, slide fastening, stretch construction or adjustable cut-to-fit system may require a different method. Follow the instructions for that design rather than inventing a middle hole or stretching the belt to obtain a preferred reading.
Check wearing position, width and fastening together
A measurement taken for a belt worn over a coat answers a different fit question from one taken through trouser loops. Describe the intended position and clothing when asking a maker about sizing. Avoid applying a universal “add one size” rule to every brand and type of garment.
Length is only part of the fit. Check whether the strap and its tip can pass normally through the intended loops, whether the buckle fastens as designed and where the free end sits. If operation requires force or an awkward twist, a matching size label has not resolved the problem. The covered-buckle and exposed-hardware guide explains the parts worth inspecting.
Keep historical specifications unresolved when evidence is missing
Our Möhel belt archive identifies historical designs through sources. A modern maker’s measuring convention cannot reconstruct a missing Coco or Granatta size chart. Nor can a photograph of a belt being worn establish its total length or the distance between fastening holes.
For a belt you can examine, use the accessory documentation guide to keep your readings separate from a published specification. Record condition and any visible alterations, since a shortened strap or added hole changes what is being measured.
Sources and limits
Hermès — Size guide, belt-sizing question; Ettinger — Belt Size Guide. Reviewed on 15 October 2026. These sources describe their own sizing approaches; they are not a universal conversion table.
The measurement checklist is editorial guidance. No historical Möhel belt or current retail sample was measured for this article, and no individual size is recommended without its relevant measurements.
Explore the practical guides directory for further leather and accessory notes.