A leather thickness figure describes a dimension. Temper describes how firm or soft the leather feels and behaves. A finished bag, belt or strap adds another level: its folded layers, lining and construction. Keeping these three records separate makes a specification much more useful.
Thickness and the trade term “weight”
Horween’s leather glossary uses weight, thickness and substance for this specification and explains that leather can be sold in ounces or millimetres. Its example equates a 5–5½ oz range with approximately 2.0–2.2 mm. Here, ounces identify a trade thickness range; they are not the total mass of a finished accessory.
Preserve a supplier’s stated range instead of replacing it with a single precise number. Record whether a quoted thickness belongs to the supplied leather, a skived area or the completed item. These measurements answer different questions.
Temper describes firmness or softness
Horween’s account of drying and finishing identifies temper or softness as something adjusted during leather production. It describes how different processes can produce different results. A thickness figure alone therefore does not provide a full description of the leather’s handling.
Wickett & Craig’s Oiled Latigo and Show Harness page makes the distinction concrete: it mentions firmer and softer tempers while also offering a range of weights. When comparing materials, ask for the exact article and temper as well as the thickness. A broad leather-family name may leave those choices unresolved.
If a seller calls a leather “firm”, keep that wording attributed to the seller. Without a stated method or scale, it should not be treated as a numerical result that can be compared directly across suppliers.
Record the finished part where it matters
For an existing accessory, start with the point relevant to the question: a strap passing through hardware, a folded attachment tab or a plain panel. A measurement from an accessible edge describes that location; it does not reveal the thickness of every concealed layer.
| Record | Useful detail | Limit |
|---|---|---|
| Leather specification | Supplier, article, thickness range and any stated temper. | Does not describe the complete sewn assembly. |
| Accessible finished part | Measurement location, visible layers, tool and reading. | Does not separate hidden lining, reinforcement or adhesive. |
| Observed handling | Where the part bends or meets hardware during normal use. | Does not establish load capacity or long-term durability. |
For a folded or lined strap, ask for the finished thickness at the attachment point. The bag strap clip guide explains the separate eye, gate and ring clearances. Width and thickness both need their own entries in that connection record.
Make comparisons repeatable
Use this editorial sequence when collecting information from a seller or from an accessory you can inspect:
- Identify the exact material and finished component before comparing any numbers.
- Keep the supplier’s thickness range and temper description in separate fields, with their source and date.
- If measuring an accessible part, record the location and tool; avoid squeezing a compressible area or forcing a bend to obtain a reading.
- Photograph the measurement position and note hidden layers or other limits. Request a sample or clarification when the available record cannot answer the fit question.
A useful comparison can remain incomplete. “Finished attachment thickness unknown” is more informative than transferring a panel measurement to a folded connection.
Sources and scope
The tannery references above explain terminology and product options. They do not specify the leather or construction of any historical Möhel accessory, and no physical sample was tested for this guide.
The guide to watch-strap uppers, linings and finishes covers the component distinctions in another accessory type. Return to the practical guides directory for the related material and hardware records.